Guadeloupe

The weatherman said this was the window to head for Guadeloupe. Mia Tia, Gary and Marie’s 44’ Lagoon, beat us and came by to say good bye. By 7:45 we were underway and we said good bye to Lutz, a Lagoon 380 from East Germany, as we motored out. There was very little wind so we motored to the end of the island of Dominica. As we nosed out toward the open water passage we set sail with a reefed main and as the wind picked up to 15 kt. from the ESE we soon shutdown the engine and we were sailing at 7 – 8 kts with a 3 –6’ swell and a 1’ chop. It was a great sail to Guadalupe! We made the passage in 4 hours averaging 7.5 kts. and had a couple of gusts pushing us to 9.7 kts. Then in the lee of the island we sailed for another 30 min. before the wind shifted 160 degrees and we had to motor to the Jacque Cousteau dive park at Pigeon Island.

Pigeon Islands

Guadeloupe is a French speaking country and actually is made up of 2 main islands with a canal separating them. It is shaped like a butterfly with plantations on the east  island and rugged mountains on the west. We spent about a week stopping in two harbors. The first, Pigeon Island, is a Cousteau Underwater Park with the mainland shore a day time beach area with little bars, restaurants, and bistros along with water sports shops. They rent snorkel gear, kayaks and floats there and have ferries that have water slides and jump platforms, to Pigeon Island. There are also a

Rigeon Island Beach

 number of scuba diving operations running to the island. People snorkel far out into the bay to see turtles, or kayak the quarter mile to Pigeon Island to hike and snorkel, or lay on the white sand beach with a drink from the bar. During our stay we saw many turtles from the boat and, while Carl was snorkeling to check the anchor, one swam under the boat with three Remora fish attached to it.

Turtle with Remora Fish attached

 Carl arranged for a scuba trip to Pigeon Island and said it was beautiful. He saw 3 Lion Fish, a Sea Snake, and when he put his hand into the sand in certain spots it felt warm from the magma below. The dive master blew into a large sponge and a ring of bubbles floated up from the top edge of the sponge. We also needed ice so Leslie found a market a mile up the road that sold cube and block ice. So we walked there and carried back two 5 kg bags of cubes, 11 lbs. each, and a 14kg. block, about 30 lbs. The walk was uphill on the way back and Carl was not a happy camper with the 30lbs. of ice on his back. 

Me and my dive buddies

Blowing into sponre and bubbles coming out

Lion Fish

Dive Master with Sea Snake

 It lasted a week which was the only saving grace.  The next day the wind howled down the mountain whipping up small waves and streaks of foam as well as sending sheets of spray across the anchorage, and we were only 200 yds. from the beach!  We set a second anchor and rode out the squall.  

Lobster hanging upside down

Deshaies looking at cemetery

Our second anchorage was a quaint little fish town in the north end of Guadalupe called Deshaies (pronounced Day-ay). We anchored off this picturesque little town which has two streets and the narrowest sidewalks I have ever seen! The wind was stiff so we stayed to wait for a weather window to head for Antigua. While we were there we hiked to an old cannon battery and out of town to a big crescent sand beach. We also caught up with some friends, Rick and Elizabeth on Sojourn Mariner. They had some rope caught in their propeller so Carl dove down and cut it all off, about 10’.

Leslie and Elizabeth

Then we all went to the most beautiful Botanical Gardens we have ever seen. Not only were there innumerable labeled plants, unfortunately in French, but interactive parrot cages and ponds of fish at the bottom of waterfalls which were overlooked by a nice restaurant. When the winds finally abated it was off to Antigua.

Parrots in the interactive cage

Leslie, Rick, and Elizabeth

Pretty  Bird

waterfall with where we ate above

Antigua

Nelson's Dockyard

The sail to English Harbor Antigua from Deshaies Guadalupe is 42 miles of open ocean. The winds we still strong so we set sail with double reefed main and jib. As we left the head lands we hit 25 – 30 kt. winds and a 2 meter sea. We sailed close hauled at 8 – 9 kts. past the end of the island. There the wind lessened and shifted about half way across. We shook out the reefs from the jib and sailed at a beam reach in about 15 kts. of wind quartering into a 3 -5’ swell and 2 2.5 meter seas to Antigua. We averaged 7.5 kts. for the first 3 hours, but the wind started to die the second 3 hours so we only averaged a little over 6.5 kts. As we sailed up to the entrance of English harbor we were met by a low walled fort with a dozen gun ports at the end of a point of land that you had to round to get into the harbor. After dropping the sails we motored around the fort and past a small bay to starboard full of sailboats toward Nelson Dockyard.

English and Falmouth Bays were the British harbors in the 1800s. Nelson Dockyard was the refit and repair harbor for the British in the Caribbean. It is protected by several forts and batteries as well as a high stone wall. The whole complex has been restored, but now houses modern shops, restaurants, Inns, and businesses within its old stone and timber buildings.  The perimeter has room for 33 mega yachts stern to. It has numerous yacht stores and services and is the host for many sailing events including Antigua classic yacht sail week and Antigua race week. As we came into the dockyard we were awed by the number and size of the yachts moored there, including Leander, one of the Royal Yachts. We anchored just north of SunSail as we are still on shake down, and the SeaTalk cable had managed to come thru the topping lift hole and the main halyard hole in the mast.  SunSail sent out a tech and we squared it away with enough time for Carl to get us entered thru customs and immigration.  As he was leaving the offices he saw an ad for a Fri. Fish night and the prices were right.  This is a big deal at the Dock Yard, we thought they were setting up for a wedding. It is just that many locals as well as cruisers come to this dinner.   We ended up sitting with Susan and Andrew of Andromeda of Plymouth and had a great time comparing adventures.  They invited us as their guests the next night for THE TOT.

SunSail at Nelson's Dockyard

Sue, Andrew, and Anne

The Adventure Continues: Dominica

Dominica is a beautiful island with untouched rainforests and picturesque waterfalls with an abundance of natural beauty. It should be advertised as an eco-island as it has many long natural hikes and some great diving. Our arrival was less than auspicious. We had a great sail over from Martinique averaging 8 Kts in 20 Kts of wind across the passage.  It was another beautiful sail with flying fish jumping around the boat and the sails full on a close reach.  The passage was marred by the failure of the port jib wench. After releasing the port sheet line a couple times, the cleat CarI put on the port side came in handy for securing the port jib sheet.   Once in the lee of Dominica the wind died, as usual, and we turned on just the port engine to save fuel as we motored to Roseau. After about 20 min. we smelled burning rubber. So we started the starboard engine and shutdown the port so Carl could take a look. The alternator and fresh water pump fan belt had broken and the engine had over heated with coolant pouring out of the reservoir! We limped in on one engine and took a mooring with the help of Dexter, a boat boy. He had difficulty understanding that a catamaran on one engine turns circles and is not as maneuverable as one would think.   Tuesday became repair day.

The first part of the morning was spent taking apart wenches and comparing them. The first thing we found was that the bad wench had an extra bearing spacer. We removed it to no avail. Then, after much disassembly and reassembly, we found a gear on the bad wench put in upside down. We turned it over and reassemble the wench and eureka! The wench worked!  The engine was now the most important thing to fix. First Carl refilled the heat exchanger, sanded the pulleys as they were rough and rusted, and finally replaced the belt. The engine came to life! However, there was no water coming out with the exhaust as it should. What followed was a lot of water being poured into the inlet water filter and trying the engine until once more water flowed. Then we noticed the saltwater pump belt was loose, so after 30 minutes in a number of different yoga positions, Carl got the belt tightened. With the two big repairs done, we moved on to replacing the Delta anchor with a 30 kg. Claw.  The anchor has proved its weight in gold as the winds have been gusting into the 40knot and 50knot range.  We have not drug once so far.

With repairs done and lunch eaten we went to clear customs, this was not as easy as it sounds as Carnival was in full swing and we had to chase down the customs officers to become legal entrants.  Much shuffling of paperwork and overtime pay…. and we were checked in to Dominica.  There were big music trucks and people dancing in the street and a parade going on. Apparently it was a last celebration before Ash Wednesday. The islands celebrate for 3 days before Ash

Leslie is into the party!

Wednesday and the beginning of lent. Carl was happy,  he found the local beer on draft at a street vender.   We didn’t party too hardy as we were going to hike to the boiling lake the next day.

Start of trail. a wooden water pipe

a break in the hike

This climb is really steep!!

Boiling eggs in hot pool

The boiling lake reviels itself

On the way back

The hike to Boiling Lake is a HIKE! This is billed as one of the most grueling hikes on the island.  We found out why!  It took six and a half hours hiking there and back. That doesn’t count the time enjoying the view at 4000’, or boiling eggs in a hot spring, or having lunch at boiling lake.  We were fortunate that after it had rained the entire climb to the lake the skies cleared and we were able to see the entire crater and the boiling water therein.  People have been known to climb this trail numerous times before the weather will clear and they can see the actual boiling lake. It was an uphill hike both ways! However at the end of the hike was a river swim up a narrow canyon with steep smooth sides to a water chute with a 4’ drop. Then climb on the sides of the canyon up to the chute and wade through to a pool with a 7’ chute pouring into it. The water was brisk, but clear and it was a lot of fun. The day ended with beers and rum punch, but it could have been improved with a good leg and foot massage.

Rick, Nia, Leslie, and Carl

Trafalga Falls

Rick and Nia arrived on a cruise ship, Thursday, and we met them for a day of fun. We were waiting for them on the pier. They came to the boat for drinks and a swim, then a visit to Trafalgar Falls and its hot pools, lunch at a local creole restaurant and a short walk of the town to finish their visit. It was too short a visit, but it was great to see them.  Roseau was fun, and there are still a lot more hikes to do and places to see, but it was time to move on to Prince Rupert Bay.

The sail up to Portsmouth, Prince Rupert Bay, was like sailing in a lake. The winds were variable and shifting the whole way up. First we were close hauled into 15 kt. winds, then it would shift aft and we were in a broad reach. Then the wind would die, but quickly pickup to 25 kts. We had to start the engine for the last 4 miles so we started and used the starboard engine. As we came around the point to enter Prince Rupert Bay, the winds ramped up to 25 kts right on the nose! The one engine could not make any headway into the wind and waves so Carl went to start the port engine. Nothing! With only one engine we had to jibe to turn starboard. So we set a reefed jib, put the engine into neutral and sailed into the bay, at one point clocking 39.5 kts of wind, and up to the shore where the winds and waves were lighter and we were able to motor into an anchorage. Boy, are we glad we have the 30 kg. Claw!  It set right in and held us tight in 20 – 25 kts. of wind through Saturday night.  One of the highlights of Port Rupert is the Sunday nite BBQ put on by the security group.  This is all the boat boys organized and keeping Port Rupert safe for cruisers.  The fee for the BBQ is used to offset their expenses.  Well worth it as it is all the chicken, fish, rice, coleslaw, beans and rum punch you can handle.  The rum punch is veery good……

On the Indian River

A table at the bar on Indian River

Monday morning it was back into the engine compartment checking the problem. No power to the start relay. After tracing wires all morning and looking at plugs the engine miraculously started.   We meet an Australian couple, Gary and Marie, on a Lagoon 44 and had a great day with them.   Marie joined us on an Indian River Tour as this is one of the settings for Pirates of the Caribbean 2 and 3. It was rainy, but the guide was great and we learn a lot about the area, which is good because a mile up the river we stopped at a jungle bar and had a drink made with all local ingredients called The Dynamite.  All learning stops after that!  We hiked out of the River jungle and through much edible vegetation.   After a quick lunch we decide to hike Fort Shirley in Cabrits National Park. The fort is well maintained with wall and buildings and cannons intact.  We hiked up to the battery which gave us a view of Iles Des Saintes.  At the end of the day we enjoyed the adjoining museum.   

Fort Battery overlooks Cruise Ships

The next day I go back in the engine compartment, Gary comes over and helps. We really find no problem but a relay that is not tight. We tighten it and the engine works!   Another Lagoon 380 from East Germany anchored off our stern and we met Lutz and Ulrike and are amazed at what they have on their boat.  They have a washing machine, RO maker and much more that we had not thought possible.  We arrange the next day to go for a hike with them up the island, many new vistas on this hike and a beautiful beach and bay.  Checking the various weather internet channels, we see a weather window and it is time to move on to Guadeloupe.   We are still following the elusive rainbow of dreams and adventure.

Double Rainbow

Martinique

We finally left St. Lucia, it was hard to leave as we really enjoyed it, and headed for Martinique.  Despite the “book” telling us all the woes of crime, boat boys etc. we did not experience any issues that made us feel unsafe in St. Lucia.  We got an early start and as soon as we were in the middle of Rodney Bay we set full sail. The winds were 10 – 15 kts and out of the East. We had plotted a course to Grand Anse, but as we rounded Pigeon Island for Martinique, we ran into 15 -20 knot winds out of the ESE and a 3 foot chop with 6-8 foot swells. With the slight South wind we close reached and close hauled towards Le Marin. It was a good sail with flying fish all around the boat and we sailed close to an old Dutch square rigged wooden schooner that was headed South.

 We had 21 miles to go and did it in 3 hours. Of course as we got into the lee of Martinique the wind shifted North and we turned on the iron jenny to motor in. The harbor is huge with several fingers off and we motored around in search of less than 20’ of water to anchor. We found it in one of the little fingers that is surrounded by mangroves and a score of boats tied to them. The bottom is mud so visibility is poor.

We lowered the dinghy and went to check in. There are several Marinas in the harbor and each have long docks full of boats. We finally found the dinghy dock and asked about checking in only to find they close at 12:30 PM and most businesses, except restaurants and bars, close from 12 to 2. Oh well we just explored the town. It is a small dense town with old stone walls and buildings built into a high hill. The narrow streets and steep winding roads with small shops, stores, and houses on them are interesting to explore. Le Marin is a yachting city. There are 4 different chandleries, 2 engine stores, multiple riggers and sail lofts, and of course the bars and restaurants on the harbor. The Marinas are separated by a long beach and point, and the left side has a nice dinghy channel through the mangroves to a dock by the chandleries and shopping center.

The Market

Kids in parade

The next day was Valentine’s Day and we went to check in. There was a parade going on of small children all dressed up in shiny costumes practicing for Mardi Gras. Each school class seemed to have a different colorful costume.  Martinique is a French speaking country so checking in had its problems as they used the French name for the countries and cities, and of course the customs agent speaks very little English. This also made for exciting meals at the restaurants. However, the people try to help you get what you want. That evening I disassembled the port jib winch as it had failed on the sail over. After examining it and not finding anything obvious, I started to put it back together. As I put the drum and self tailer on the spline, the self tailer gears didn’t match and the self tailer part popped off the drum, bounced on the cabin top over the towel I had put down to catch any wayward parts, on to the deck where it bounced twice as I chased it and then flipped over the toe rail into the water. Noooooooo! It was sundown so the water was too dark to dive in and it was time to go to Lateral Thinking, a catamaran with and Australian couple we met in St. Lucia, for dinner.   CarI tried to be a good guest.  We compared boat shake down problems as they were just taking their boat out of charter also and we all seemed to be shaking out the nuts and bolts so to speak. The next morning Carl let the sun rise a bit and donned  snorkel gear and dove overboard.  He almost ran into the bottom. The visibility at 12’ was 2’ and the bottom soft mud. After 30 minutes he was discouraged and prayed please God help me find the part. Another 15 minutes of searching and examining a couple of shells and bottles, he realized I don’t even know what to look for. A few more dives and he noticed a small white line in the mud, reached to see what it was and IT WAS THE SELF TAILER!!  surfaced with a resounding YES! And thanked the Lord for his mercy.  Told Leslie I do not work on deck hardware in water deeper than 15’ and must have a sand bottom with full visibility.

Inflatable water toys at a beach club

Carl at the Les Salines beach

HMS Diamond Rock

Then we went to St Ann, at the head of La Marin harbor anchored and took the dinghy to explore. St. Ann sits on a long sand beach and is a nice beach town; we hiked a 3 mile trail up the peninsula to several beaches finally coming to Les Salinas where we turned around to head back.  This is a mile long beach lined with palms and beautiful white sand.  The waves broke in rhythmic rollers. 

Leslie on the Beach

 Carl enjoyed some body surfing.  We got back to the village in time for the fish market and bought some great fish.  We headed out the next morning for Grand Anse. We passed by Diamond Rock which was accutally commisioned as a ship by the British because they put cannons on it and attacked unsuspecting French ships.
  Grand Anse is a deep anchorage except close to shore so we were looking for a hole near there.  Two cats pulled up anchor as we were perusing the shore and we were able to drop anchor in 10ft., Carl’s favorite depth.  As we were dropping anchor off this dock, the owners went by in their boat and said, “Watch the house for us…” Carl yelled back, “Is there beer in the fridge?”, and they said later.  We went to check out of Martinique, great, you go to a bar fill in the info on a computer and then the bartender stamps the papers, all quite civilized.  As we were coming back from checking out and watching for the elusive green flash, the owners of the dock also came back and invited us to their deck overhanging the water for drinks and typical French dinner of fish terrine and te-te pain.  The setting was lovely  and Serge and Alison were incredible hosts and suddenly it was 2300 and time to get some sleep.  We pulled the anchor at 1000 and waved good bye to our night time hosts with promises to connect next time we come thru.  We were going to St. Pierre. Serge is the great, great grandson of the Deputy Mayer of St. Pierre when the volcano erupted in 1902.  He and Alison live on the family plantation as it was not wiped out in the disaster. Serge grows sugar cane as this is a major crop on Martinique.  St. Pierre was the Paris of the Caribbean in the late 1800 hundreds  with 30,000 residents.  It is now much more of a Caribbean village.  At one point it was wiped off the French books and considered non-existent.  In the 1930’s the people living there reapplied with France for reinstatement as a town. 

 Sunday when we arrived, Mardi Gras was getting started and we got to see many elaborate costumes and the church as the parade wound its way there.  

Church

The church minus the top of its steeples was also saved from the 1902 eruption.  The only person to survive was a prisoner in the local jail. This will be our jump off point for Dominica.