The Adventure Continues: Dominica

Dominica is a beautiful island with untouched rainforests and picturesque waterfalls with an abundance of natural beauty. It should be advertised as an eco-island as it has many long natural hikes and some great diving. Our arrival was less than auspicious. We had a great sail over from Martinique averaging 8 Kts in 20 Kts of wind across the passage.  It was another beautiful sail with flying fish jumping around the boat and the sails full on a close reach.  The passage was marred by the failure of the port jib wench. After releasing the port sheet line a couple times, the cleat CarI put on the port side came in handy for securing the port jib sheet.   Once in the lee of Dominica the wind died, as usual, and we turned on just the port engine to save fuel as we motored to Roseau. After about 20 min. we smelled burning rubber. So we started the starboard engine and shutdown the port so Carl could take a look. The alternator and fresh water pump fan belt had broken and the engine had over heated with coolant pouring out of the reservoir! We limped in on one engine and took a mooring with the help of Dexter, a boat boy. He had difficulty understanding that a catamaran on one engine turns circles and is not as maneuverable as one would think.   Tuesday became repair day.

The first part of the morning was spent taking apart wenches and comparing them. The first thing we found was that the bad wench had an extra bearing spacer. We removed it to no avail. Then, after much disassembly and reassembly, we found a gear on the bad wench put in upside down. We turned it over and reassemble the wench and eureka! The wench worked!  The engine was now the most important thing to fix. First Carl refilled the heat exchanger, sanded the pulleys as they were rough and rusted, and finally replaced the belt. The engine came to life! However, there was no water coming out with the exhaust as it should. What followed was a lot of water being poured into the inlet water filter and trying the engine until once more water flowed. Then we noticed the saltwater pump belt was loose, so after 30 minutes in a number of different yoga positions, Carl got the belt tightened. With the two big repairs done, we moved on to replacing the Delta anchor with a 30 kg. Claw.  The anchor has proved its weight in gold as the winds have been gusting into the 40knot and 50knot range.  We have not drug once so far.

With repairs done and lunch eaten we went to clear customs, this was not as easy as it sounds as Carnival was in full swing and we had to chase down the customs officers to become legal entrants.  Much shuffling of paperwork and overtime pay…. and we were checked in to Dominica.  There were big music trucks and people dancing in the street and a parade going on. Apparently it was a last celebration before Ash Wednesday. The islands celebrate for 3 days before Ash

Leslie is into the party!

Wednesday and the beginning of lent. Carl was happy,  he found the local beer on draft at a street vender.   We didn’t party too hardy as we were going to hike to the boiling lake the next day.

Start of trail. a wooden water pipe

a break in the hike

This climb is really steep!!

Boiling eggs in hot pool

The boiling lake reviels itself

On the way back

The hike to Boiling Lake is a HIKE! This is billed as one of the most grueling hikes on the island.  We found out why!  It took six and a half hours hiking there and back. That doesn’t count the time enjoying the view at 4000’, or boiling eggs in a hot spring, or having lunch at boiling lake.  We were fortunate that after it had rained the entire climb to the lake the skies cleared and we were able to see the entire crater and the boiling water therein.  People have been known to climb this trail numerous times before the weather will clear and they can see the actual boiling lake. It was an uphill hike both ways! However at the end of the hike was a river swim up a narrow canyon with steep smooth sides to a water chute with a 4’ drop. Then climb on the sides of the canyon up to the chute and wade through to a pool with a 7’ chute pouring into it. The water was brisk, but clear and it was a lot of fun. The day ended with beers and rum punch, but it could have been improved with a good leg and foot massage.

Rick, Nia, Leslie, and Carl

Trafalga Falls

Rick and Nia arrived on a cruise ship, Thursday, and we met them for a day of fun. We were waiting for them on the pier. They came to the boat for drinks and a swim, then a visit to Trafalgar Falls and its hot pools, lunch at a local creole restaurant and a short walk of the town to finish their visit. It was too short a visit, but it was great to see them.  Roseau was fun, and there are still a lot more hikes to do and places to see, but it was time to move on to Prince Rupert Bay.

The sail up to Portsmouth, Prince Rupert Bay, was like sailing in a lake. The winds were variable and shifting the whole way up. First we were close hauled into 15 kt. winds, then it would shift aft and we were in a broad reach. Then the wind would die, but quickly pickup to 25 kts. We had to start the engine for the last 4 miles so we started and used the starboard engine. As we came around the point to enter Prince Rupert Bay, the winds ramped up to 25 kts right on the nose! The one engine could not make any headway into the wind and waves so Carl went to start the port engine. Nothing! With only one engine we had to jibe to turn starboard. So we set a reefed jib, put the engine into neutral and sailed into the bay, at one point clocking 39.5 kts of wind, and up to the shore where the winds and waves were lighter and we were able to motor into an anchorage. Boy, are we glad we have the 30 kg. Claw!  It set right in and held us tight in 20 – 25 kts. of wind through Saturday night.  One of the highlights of Port Rupert is the Sunday nite BBQ put on by the security group.  This is all the boat boys organized and keeping Port Rupert safe for cruisers.  The fee for the BBQ is used to offset their expenses.  Well worth it as it is all the chicken, fish, rice, coleslaw, beans and rum punch you can handle.  The rum punch is veery good……

On the Indian River

A table at the bar on Indian River

Monday morning it was back into the engine compartment checking the problem. No power to the start relay. After tracing wires all morning and looking at plugs the engine miraculously started.   We meet an Australian couple, Gary and Marie, on a Lagoon 44 and had a great day with them.   Marie joined us on an Indian River Tour as this is one of the settings for Pirates of the Caribbean 2 and 3. It was rainy, but the guide was great and we learn a lot about the area, which is good because a mile up the river we stopped at a jungle bar and had a drink made with all local ingredients called The Dynamite.  All learning stops after that!  We hiked out of the River jungle and through much edible vegetation.   After a quick lunch we decide to hike Fort Shirley in Cabrits National Park. The fort is well maintained with wall and buildings and cannons intact.  We hiked up to the battery which gave us a view of Iles Des Saintes.  At the end of the day we enjoyed the adjoining museum.   

Fort Battery overlooks Cruise Ships

The next day I go back in the engine compartment, Gary comes over and helps. We really find no problem but a relay that is not tight. We tighten it and the engine works!   Another Lagoon 380 from East Germany anchored off our stern and we met Lutz and Ulrike and are amazed at what they have on their boat.  They have a washing machine, RO maker and much more that we had not thought possible.  We arrange the next day to go for a hike with them up the island, many new vistas on this hike and a beautiful beach and bay.  Checking the various weather internet channels, we see a weather window and it is time to move on to Guadeloupe.   We are still following the elusive rainbow of dreams and adventure.

Double Rainbow